Daytime Jianshui belongs to the Confucian Temple and purple pottery, but at night, the low tables and charcoal grills on the streets take center stage. When I bring guests here for BBQ, I skip the long speeches—the ingredients and seasonings speak for themselves.

The absolute signature of Jianshui BBQ is the bite-sized roasted tofu. Its unique flavor comes entirely from being made with water from the city’s Dapan Well. Tofu made with this water carries a slightly tangy soy fragrance. As it slowly grills on the charcoal net, it puffs up, its skin turning golden and crispy. The moment you bite into it, the inside bursts with a rich, creamy texture.

Great ingredients need great dips, and the soul of Jianshui BBQ lies in the vendor’s custom dipping sauces. You usually get two kinds: a dry dip and a wet dip.
The dry dip is a mix of coarse local chili powder, Sichuan peppercorn, and salt. Roll a piece of grilled pork belly in it, and it delivers a spicy, numbing kick straight to the palate. The wet dip mixes fresh fish mint, bird’s eye chilies, cilantro, minced garlic, and local soy sauce. Eaten with freshly grilled tofu, it cuts through the richness, while the distinct flavor of the fish mint instantly elevates the umami.

Besides tofu and meat, you must try Caoya (elephant grass shoots), a local specialty exclusive to Jianshui. This aquatic plant looks like miniature ivory. After a quick sear over the fire, a single bite yields a satisfying crunch and sweet, fresh juices that perfectly balance out the heavy oils of the grilled meat.

When in Jianshui, just pull up a seat by a smoking grill, grab a piece of bursting tofu in one hand, and a bunch of sweet, crunchy roasted Caoya in the other. This is the most straightforward, authentic taste of Jianshui.